Multipitch Atlas

Erevnitis

Zobolo – West Zobolo, near Neapoli (Laconia) · Cape Maleas (Peloponnese) · Greece

Read the cautionsBail not documentedBolting confidence: medium

A four-pitch route on West Zobolo between Stin Ygeia Mas and Kipouros, alternating easier and harder pitches: 5b, 6a+, 5c and a 6b+ finish. Well supplied with bolts on paper, but documented only by the developers' topo table.

The Zobolo cliff from the approach; Erevnitis is on the highest part of the wall, on the leftPhoto: Alexis Clt · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

Photo

The Zobolo cliff from the approach; Erevnitis is on the highest part of the wall, on the leftPhoto: Alexis Clt · CC BY-NC-ND 3.0
Hardest pitch
6b+
Pitches
4
Length
115 m
Approach
17 min
Aspect
S
South-facing
Rope
Not stated
the neighbouring route uses 1×70 m
Read before you go

Known from a single source, the developers' topo table, with no description, trip report or information on belays.

The route

Overview

Erevnitis ('explorer') is a four-pitch sport route on West Zobolo, the tallest sector of the Zobolo cliff at Cape Maleas. The developers' topo lists it as route 8, between Stin Ygeia Mas and Kipouros, with pitches of 5b, 6a+, 5c and 6b+ and between 9 and 16 bolts per pitch. It does not appear by name on 27crags or Mountain Project, and no description or trip report was found, so everything here rests on that one table.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthBoltsNotes
P15b30 m12 boltsNo description published.
P26a+35 m16 boltsNo description published. The longest pitch.
P35c20 m9 boltsNo description published.
P46b+30 m15 boltsNo description published. The crux pitch by grade.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Drive to Neapoli at the southern end of the Laconian peninsula (from Athens via Sparta; from Leonidio via Geraki and Molai). On the Neapoli seafront turn left at the sign for Agios Nikolaos and Velanidia; Agios Nikolaos is 7 km on. At the entrance to the village turn right onto a sealed road and follow it for about 6.5 km to an unsurfaced road signed for Agia Marina and the climbing area, also the road to the fossil forest. About 2 km along it a sign points to the climbing area and the car park is on the left, roughly a kilometre before the fossil forest. Neapoli has the nearest accommodation and shops; bring all your water.

On foot · about 17 min

A red-marked path leads from the car park to the cliff. The local topo site gives 8 min to the first sector (Protos Toichos) and 17 min to West Zobolo, the far left and highest part of the cliff, where the multipitch routes are. Route names are painted at the base. On the developers' topo this is route 8, immediately left of Kipouros.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag
  • Parking

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

36.44305, 23.12838

Parking

36.44066, 23.13060

Zobolo climbing car park on the dirt road to the fossil forest (Mountain Project area point, stated to be set on the parking area)

Point from camptocamp waypoint 1321418 (Zobolo)

For your phone or watch

Download GPX

Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.

Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

Not documented for this route. The neighbouring Zobolo tou Laou is descended by abseiling the route from belays with two unlinked bolts, each with a ring, on a 70 m rope; expect the same here but check from below.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail not documented

Retreat and descent are not described for this route in any source found. The neighbouring four-pitch Zobolo tou Laou, by the same equipper, is descended by abseiling the route: its belays have two bolts, each with an abseil ring, not linked together. It is reasonable to expect similar belays here, but this is not confirmed.

Retreat from
Not documented.
Point of no return
Not documented.
Carry
A 70 m rope (the longest pitch is 35 m or less) or two ropes, plus a couple of maillons and some cord in case a belay is not rigged for abseiling (inferred).
Basis
Inferred from the route factsBased on the camptocamp description of the neighbouring Zobolo tou Laou and on the published pitch lengths.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Mountain Project notes that bolts at Zobolo can be a little further apart than at Leonidio or Kyparissi.
  • The cape is exposed to strong wind; communication between belays can be difficult.
  • A forest fire reached the Zobolo crag some years ago (the notices on the developers' site date from around 2015). A year later the developers reported that almost all routes had been repeated and no problems with the bolts were found.
  • Remote setting: the last kilometres are on a dirt road and there is no water at the crag.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South-facing sea cliff a few hundred metres from the tip of the cape. The local topo site says the sun reaches West Zobolo at about 12:00 (about 11:00 on the sectors further right). The Monemvasia municipality page recommends the crag all day in winter and only early morning or evening in summer. Cape Maleas is known for wind, and Mountain Project warns the crag can be windy.

Usual season · Jan to May, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall · S-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C131315182226293026221814
Mean daily low °C9910121620222321171411
Rain days 1 mm or more987531113489

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 164 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

16 quickdraws for pitch 2 according to the developers' bolt count. Rope length is not stated; the longest pitch is 35 m, so a 70 m rope is the safe choice for abseiling (inferred). Helmet.

Checklist

Quickdraws
16
Rope
Not stated (the neighbouring route uses 1×70 m)
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat
Cord
Mentioned for retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Erevnitis.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Kipouros, immediately right, has a trip report and makes a good first route on this part of the wall.
  • Whether the 6b+ last pitch can be aided on its 15 bolts is not documented.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • Single source: the route is listed by name only on the developers' topo. 27crags has two unnamed four-pitch entries for West Zobolo, one of which may be this route.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

More in Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)

All routes in Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)
The Zobolo cliff; Zobolo tou Laou is on the highest part, on the left

Greece · Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)

Zobolo tou Laou

An even, well-bolted line with sea views: a short corner and slab, steep walls and a superb final pitch with a juggy steep crux. The last belay is hanging and uncomfortable.

5c+4 pitches135 m

The Zobolo cliff from the approach; Kipouros climbs the highest part of the wall, on the left

Greece · Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)

Kipouros

The right-hand multipitch of West Zobolo, skirting the right side of the grey wall at the highest point of the crag above the sea. An unpromising vegetated groove leads to a sustained 6a+ second pitch, a traverse on pitch 4 and a fine 6a slabby wall of prickly grey rock to finish.

6a+5 pitches130 m

The Zobolo cliff from the approach; Ebnefsi is on the highest part of the wall, on the left

Greece · Cape Maleas (Peloponnese)

Ebnefsi

Five short pitches on West Zobolo just left of Zobolo tou Laou: two at 6a, two easy ones at 5b, and a harder last pitch graded 6c by the developers and 6b on 27crags. Evenly bolted at 10 or 11 bolts per pitch. No pitch descriptions have been published.

6c5 pitches115 m

Around 6b+ · about 4 pitches

Similar elsewhere

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Slovenia · Vršič Pass (Julian Alps)

Črni panter

Sustained slab climbing up a striking black streak, clearly visible from the pass, on surprisingly good rock for this face. The crux is a move from slab into a corner on P2.

6b+4 pitches105 m

Read the cautions

The south-east face of the Roca dels Arcs above the road from Vilanova de Meià, in the Montsec de Rúbies.

Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)

El Somni de Quimfer

Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.

6b+4 pitches160 m

The Zucco dell'Angelone above the Valsassina, seen from Pasturo, with the antenna on its summit. The climbing spurs are the pale limestone ribs on the sunny side of the mountain above Barzio; individual spurs and routes are not marked.

Italy · Lecco & Valsassina

Foto di Gruppo con Signorine

Three friendly pitches up a striking arched flake and compact slabs, then a short wall with one hard, reachy move that most people pull through. A 1980 route by the Savonittos and Alessandro Gogna, and the usual first half of a link-up with Gli Schiavi della Pietra on the spur above.

6b+4 pitches90 m

Read the cautions

The Mur du Scorpion, in the sun from about 08:00 to 15:00 (image from the local topo team)

Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)

Berber

The four-pitch line between Prisa Mata and La voie du Scorpion: three pitches around 6a on walls and a corner, then a fine pillar and a bulge at 6b+. Less homogeneous than its neighbours and with some flaky rock, but a worthwhile third route on the wall.

6b+4 pitches150 m

Read the cautions

Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.