Austria · Salzkammergut
Wöitroas
A modern (2016–19) plaisir route that mixes nice climbing with scrambly and wooded sections. One pitch is UIAA 6/6+ and one is 6; the rest is easier. Quick in and out.
6a+9 pitches270 m
Haselnuss
Plombergstein, St. Gilgen · Salzkammergut · Austria
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
A varied seven-pitch route on the south-east wall next to Taxus and Juniperus. Two pitches carry the difficulty, a steep juggy first pitch and a slabby key pitch of 6-; the rest is easy climbing on pocketed slabs. Uneven, but very well protected.
- Hardest pitch
- 5c
- Pitches
- 7
- Length
- 235 m
- Approach
- 20 min
- Aspect
- SE
- South-east-facing
- Rope
- 1×50 m
- walk-off
The route
Overview
Haselnuss is one of the newer multipitch lines on the south-east side of the Plombergstein above St. Gilgen; theCrag dates it to 2020. Steep wall passages alternate with rough slabs, but most of the time you climb easy, slabby, pocketed rock. bergsteigen.com calls it a good alternative to the other routes of this wall and a little inhomogeneous: the first pitch is 5-/5 and the fourth has one passage of 6- in free climbing, while everything else is clearly easier. The key pitch is slabby and delicate when wet.
The climbing
Pitch by pitch
5a4b4b5c4b3a4c
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5a | 30 m | UIAA 5/5+ on theCrag, 5-/5 on bergsteigen.com. Steep and juggy from the platform. The third bolt was reported without hanger and nut in October 2024. |
| P2 | 4b | 35 m | UIAA 4. Stepped ground. |
| P3 | 4b | 28 m | UIAA 4. |
| P4 | 5c | 27 m | UIAA 6-, the key pitch: slabby, a pleasure when dry and delicate when wet. |
| P5 | 4b | 35 m | UIAA 4. Easy slabs. |
| P6 | 3a | 37 m | UIAA 3-. Easy slabs. |
| P7 | 4c | 40 m | UIAA 4+. Fine easy slabs to the exit. |
Getting there
Approach
To the parking
Leave the A1 at Mondsee (from Linz) or Thalgau (from Salzburg) and drive towards Bad Ischl to St. Gilgen on the Wolfgangsee. The Plombergstein is easy to see from the village. Park at the car park where the access road to the Plombergstein begins, opposite Gasthof Mühlradl (630 m). Use only this car park and do not drive up the tarmac road to the rocks, which causes trouble with residents. Buses run to St. Gilgen.
On foot · about 20 min
From the car park at Gasthof Mühlradl follow a road diagonally uphill and, shortly after a wayside shrine, turn right towards the Plombergstein. After 5 minutes you reach the Alpine Club crag, crossing the stream just before it. Follow the stream downstream, pass below the toilet and continue slightly downhill along the stream. At a junction with a signpost take a path up left. You reach the rocks, where a red mark is visible, and climb to the start of Taxus. Go left there, a few metres steeply up a fixed rope, then right onto a rock platform overgrown with ivy below a pale, steep wall. A plaque marks the start. Allow 20 minutes.
Map of the walk-in
- Route base
- Parking
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
47.77300, 13.35390
Car park opposite Gasthof Mühlradl
Point from bergsteigen.com map marker (route base)
For your phone or watch
Download GPX
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.77653, 13.35975 (route base) · Parking: 47.77300, 13.35390
Getting down
Descent
From the exit walk up to the Plombergstein hut and take one of the hiking paths back to the valley. bergsteigen.com allows 35 minutes.
Retreat
Bailing off the route
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The route is climbed on a single 50 m rope and walked off from the top. The belays are bolted, but pitches are 27 to 40 m, so one 50 m rope does not reach from belay to belay on an abseil.
- Retreat from
- Not stated.
- Point of no return
- Not documented. After the key pitch 4 the remaining three pitches are easy slabs, so finishing is the natural choice.
- Carry
- A second rope if you want to be able to abseil, plus maillons and cord.
- Basis
- Inferred from the route factsNo source mentions abseiling; the rope arithmetic uses theCrag's pitch lengths.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Hazards
- The slabby key pitch is delicate when wet.
- A missing hanger on the third bolt of pitch 1 was reported in October 2024; be ready to do without that bolt.
Sun and weather
Conditions
South-east facing, between the car park at 630 m and the 805 m summit. Do not climb it after rain or when the wall is wet: bergsteigen.com gives a simple check, which is that black water streaks on the wall at the Alpine Club crag and up to its right mean the route is not in condition. No season is published; April to October is an estimate from the altitude and aspect.
Usual season · Apr to Oct
JFMAMJJASOND
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
- January: not yet worked out
- February: not yet worked out
- March: not yet worked out
- April (usual season): not yet worked out
- May (usual season): not yet worked out
- June (usual season): not yet worked out
- July (usual season): not yet worked out
- August (usual season): not yet worked out
- September (usual season): not yet worked out
- October (usual season): not yet worked out
- November: not yet worked out
- December: not yet worked out
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 0 | 2 | 5 | 10 | 15 | 18 | 20 | 20 | 16 | 12 | 6 | 1 |
| Mean daily low °C | −8 | −7 | −4 | −1 | 4 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 7 | 3 | −2 | −7 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 14 | 14 | 17 | 16 | 21 | 21 | 20 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 13 | 15 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1004 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
Gear
A single 50 m rope, 10 quickdraws, slings for threads and a helmet. No nuts or cams.
Checklist
- Quickdraws
- 10
- Rope
- 1×50 m (walk-off)
- Helmet
- One each
- Maillons or spare karabiners
- To leave behind if you retreat
- Cord
- Mentioned for retreat
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Haselnuss.
Worth knowing
Tips
- Only use the car park at Gasthof Mühlradl.
- Juniperus (5-), Taxus (4+) and Roberto (4+/5-) on the same wall are easier and more even in grade.
- Pitches 6 and 7 are 37 and 40 m: a 50 m rope is enough, a 40 m rope is not.
Open questions
Where sources disagree
- Pitch grades and lengths come from theCrag (seven pitches adding up to 232 m, header 230 m) against 235 m on bergsteigen.com, whose topo is behind a login.
- First pitch: 5/5+ (theCrag) against 5-/5 (bergsteigen.com); the card lists 5a.
- Obligatory grade 5-/5 according to bergsteigen.com.
- The missing hanger is a single user report from October 2024 with no follow-up.
Provenance
Sources
- bergsteigen.com – Haselnuss, PlombergsteinUsed for: grade, protection, character, approach, descent, gear, conditions, start marker
- theCrag – Haselnuss, PlombergsteinUsed for: pitch grades and lengths, first ascent year, hanger warning
- bergsteigen.com – Jakobsweg, PlombergsteinUsed for: parking rule, travel
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.