Grand Marchet – south-east face (Pralognan) · Vanoise (Grand Bec) · France
Bail with caveatsBolting confidence: high
The leftmost route on the steep south-east face of the Grand Marchet, in the Cirque du Dard above Pralognan. Short but varied limestone climbing with a lot of air for the grade: slabs, steps, a superb corner, an old-style chimney and a vertical wall, getting harder as you go. The two 6a pitches are closely bolted and go at about 5c with a pull.
The route
Despite its name the pillar faces south-east. The route gives about 180 m of climbing in seven pitches on pleasant, unpolished limestone, surprisingly easy for how vertical it is, and with rising difficulty: the first four pitches are 3c to 5a+, then a 5b+ corner, a short 6a chimney and a 6a wall shared with the neighbouring route Méli-mélo. Since its complete rebolting, camptocamp describes it as a modern, very well equipped route. The catch is the approach: about 700 m of ascent, with snow patches early in the season. The rock is excellent where it matters and sometimes friable on the easy ledges.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 3c | 40 m | Very easy steps for 10 m, with several bolts, then a rising traverse right across a slab and along a ledge. Do not stop after 20 m at the old two-peg belay: continue to the good two-bolt belay on a terrace at 40 m, shared with Méli-mélo. |
| P2 | 4c | 20 m | A crack on the left, then a step. |
| P3 | 5a | 20 m | Steps. Pitches 2 and 3 link well with a few extendable quickdraws. |
| P4 | 5a+ | 25 m | Turn a roof on the left. The belay is on a ledge, out left. |
| P5 | 5b+ | 30 m | A bulge, then a superb corner. Do not stop at the intermediate belay: go on to the one at the top of the corner, on a wide platform from which you see the three bolts and two pegs of the next pitch. |
| P6 | 6a | 15 m | An old-fashioned chimney on the right at 6a, which goes at A0 on three bolts, with a slightly bold 5c exit onto a small arête. Very short; a 2024 party measured it at 15 m. |
| P7 | 6a | 25 m | A vertical wall climbed by two successive corners with a short traverse left between them, which is the crux. Shared with Méli-mélo. |
Getting there
Drive up the Tarentaise to Moûtiers, then the Bozel valley to Pralognan-la-Vanoise, and take the Fontanettes road to the car park at its end (1640 m), at the foot of the Génépi lift. Camptocamp notes that this car park has been pay parking since 2025 (10 euros for 24 hours). Without a car: train to Moûtiers, bus to Pralognan, then a half-hour path from the tourist office to the car park; free summer shuttles run in July and August.
From Les Fontanettes follow the signposted path up towards the Cirque du Dard and the Col du Grand Marchet. At about 2300 m leave the col path and climb right for about 50 m of height towards the south-east face, to an enormous block at about 2350 m. The start is behind the block, directly below the abseil line, where several hangers are visible; the initials 'PE' are written at the foot. Parties take from 1 h (fast) to 1 h 45.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Les Fontanettes car park above Pralognan, 1640 m (camptocamp access waypoint 104461); pay parking since 2025
Point from camptocamp waypoint 40621 (Grand Marchet summit; the south-east face is just below). The route's own camptocamp point is a midpoint and was not used.
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 45.37274, 6.75103 (crag) · Parking: 45.38213, 6.73687
Getting down
From the top follow the ridge south-west for about 40 m to an abseil chain. Four abseils, 45 m obligatory, bring you back exactly to the foot of the route; the stations are all on chains and are sheltered from stonefall. This line serves every route on the face. With 2×60 m ropes the third and fourth abseils can be joined (55 m). Allow 30 to 40 min, then about 45 min to 1 h back to the car. Leaving over the summit and the Col du Grand Marchet, the original way off, involves a very exposed gully and is no longer recommended.
Retreat
Bail with caveats
Every belay has two bolts, but they are not linked and the abseil descent uses a separate line of chained stations in the corner to the left, so retreating down the route means leaving gear. The first belay is shared with Méli-mélo and the pitches are short (15 to 40 m). With two ropes a retreat from the lower pitches is reasonable; nobody has described doing it.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing between about 2350 and 2500 m; the sun reaches the combe fairly late in the morning. Early in the season the approach path disappears under snow and camptocamp advises crampons; a party on 8 June 2025 crossed two snow patches but found the foot of the route clear. Logged ascents run from early June to late September. Afternoon storms build quickly here: a July 2024 party started at 05:40 and still abseiled in rain.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −9 | −8 | −5 | −2 | 2 | 8 | 11 | 11 | 7 | 2 | −5 | −9 |
| Mean daily low °C | −16 | −16 | −13 | −9 | −6 | −1 | 2 | 2 | −2 | −6 | −12 | −16 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 2779 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
12 quickdraws, slings to link the two belay bolts, and two ropes of at least 45 m for the abseils. Helmet. Crampons for the approach early in the season. No cams or nuts: recent parties added nothing.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Pilier Est.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
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A granite slab route beside a washed-out stream bed and a small waterfall, described as the new slab classic of the Zillertal. Mostly around UIAA 5 on fine slabs, with short harder passages and a 6/6+ exit. Never very exposed, with a view of the 3000 m peaks.
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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.