Chaîne du Clapis – secteur Vistemboir · Dentelles de Montmirail · France
Easy to bailBolting confidence: medium
A mix-and-match line up the Vistemboir sector that saves the best for last: an easy slab, a long rambling traverse right, then the two very steep pitches of Solidarnosc, a vertically cracked slab at 5c and a wall of pockets, water-drops and a final corner at 6a. A quieter alternative to Vistemboir with harder climbing at the top.
The route
The name means a shandy: the route blends the first pitch of Viva la Vida, a traverse along the second pitches of Vistemboir and Égoïne, and the two upper pitches of Solidarnosc, with a last scramble to the crest. The lower half is easy and wandering; the upper half is steep, sustained and, by camptocamp's account, magnificent. It suits a party that finds Vistemboir too easy and the Diagonale des Vires Rouges too hard. It sees far fewer logged ascents than its neighbours.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5b | 25 m | The left-hand line of fixed gear, which is the first pitch of Viva la Vida: a pleasant warm-up on small knobs. |
| P2 | 4b | 48 m | Traverse right along the start of the second pitch of Vistemboir. At the end of the easy traverse do not turn up to the next bolt but keep going right to the first belay of Égoïne, on a big platform. Belay there, or, if you can manage the rope drag, follow the start of Égoïne's second pitch to its second bolt and then traverse firmly right between two bushes to a belay. |
| P3 | 5c | – | The first pitch of Solidarnosc, straight above on clearly visible bolts: a very steep slab split by vertical cracks, with many small, sometimes hidden, incut holds. Do not belay at the first chain as you leave the slab; traverse 3 to 4 m left to another on a comfortable platform. |
| P4 | 6a | – | The second pitch of Solidarnosc, the central line of bolts. Very steep and at times strenuous, with slab moves, a one-finger pocket, water-drop holds and a corner to finish. |
| P5 | 3b/c | 15 m | An easy pitch to the summit crest and the view. |
Getting there
From Beaumes-de-Venise take the road towards Lafare. About 2 km before Lafare turn left onto a small road (signed for the Domaine du Grand Montmirail according to a 2026 report) and follow it almost to its end, to the compulsory car park with an information board about the vultures that nest here. This is 'P5' in the local guide; the road towards the Col d'Alsau is closed to traffic and the old P4 car park can no longer be used. An on-demand bus runs from Carpentras to Lafare and Beaumes-de-Venise; the car park is about 2.5 km from Lafare.
From the Clapis car park follow the blue-and-yellow-dotted path and the right fork marked with a blue cross to the Vistemboir sector, about 15 minutes. At the foot of Égoïne (written in blue on the rock), traverse left along the base of the face for 10 to 15 m into a small wood. Two lines appear: glue-ins on the left and 10 mm expansion bolts on the right. The route takes the left one.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Parking du Clapis (camptocamp waypoint 189183)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43247 (Chaîne du Clapis)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 44.15222, 5.03889 (crag) · Parking: 44.14660, 5.03353
Getting down
Three abseils, each from a chain with maillons. The December 2024 party warns that there are many places where the ropes can snag, especially in wind. On the neighbouring Égoïne line, two 50 m ropes give two abseils of about 45 m.
Retreat
Easy to bail
The descent is by abseil from chained stations with maillons, and the route passes chained belays of Égoïne, Vistemboir and Solidarnosc on every pitch, so you can go down from any of them. The only caveat is the long traverse of pitch 2: retreat from its end goes down the Égoïne line, not back to your start.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
Due south, below a crest at about 487 m. Start early when it is warm; in a strong mistral the face is well sheltered, as a December 2024 party found. A cool-season route. Between 15 June and 15 September the Vaucluse massifs can be closed by prefectoral order on days of high fire risk; the decision is published after 18:00 for the next day and there is a fine for being on a closed massif. In autumn and early winter organised boar hunts take place in the massif on some days of the week.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Dentelles de Montmirail are not available yet
What to carry
14 to 15 quickdraws and slings to reduce rope drag on the long second pitch. Camptocamp gives no rope length; the second pitch is 48 m if run together, so a 50 m rope is the minimum for leading, and two ropes shorten the descent. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Un Panaché pour Fafane.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
France · Dentelles de Montmirail
A west-to-east traverse of the six towers of the Florets crest, alternating short pitches with five short abseils and ending on a knife-edge. First climbed in 1928, it is the classic introduction to ridge climbing in Provence. The moves of 5 are short but polished and cannot be avoided, and all the rope work makes it slower than its length suggests.
5b9 pitches120 m
France · Dentelles de Montmirail
A short, generously bolted beginner's multipitch on the north face of the Gigondas chain: an easy corner, a fine vertical wall, a rising traverse, and then a squeeze through a natural window in the crest to finish on the sunny south side. Polished from traffic but full of character, and done in an hour or so.
5b4 pitches65 m
France · Dentelles de Montmirail
The classic easy multipitch of the Clapis south face, first climbed in 1964 and now fully re-equipped: a slab, an easy rightward ramble, an obvious corner and a superb steep 5c pitch on very grippy rock with a short airy traverse. A 5 m scramble reaches the crest for a view of both sides of the chain and Mont Ventoux.
5c5 pitches90 m
France · Dentelles de Montmirail
A ridge traverse along the knife-edge crest of the highest of the Dentelles, from the Brèche de la Pousterle to the Roc du Turc (627 m): a bolted arête, a pillar, an abseil onto a rock arch above a hole, a steep 5c or 6a pitch and a crest 50 cm wide in places. Lots of rope work and a lot of air for the grade, with escapes on both sides.
5c11 pitches90 m
Read the cautions
Around 6a · about 5 pitches
Italy · Monte Argentario
Three independent pitches on the wall below Capo d'Uomo, ending with a memorable 40 m wall of pockets, drips and flowstone at 6a. The route proper stops on the arête; the opener suggests carrying on up the last two pitches of the Spigolo Bonatti, an exposed 5c traverse and an easy ridge, to finish at the tower.
6a5 pitches200 m
Switzerland · Grimsel
A short, varied granite route up a pale, smooth pillar across the valley from the Handegg slabs: a corner crack, then friction and edge slabs that get harder pitch by pitch. Grades are stiff, and the last pitch is sustained and tricky. A good half day or uncertain-weather route with a 15-minute approach.
6a5 pitches200 m
Spain · Escales (Ribagorça Pyrenees)
The neighbour of Xin Xan and a step up from it: adherence slabs low down, then an excellent, vertical third pitch on good holds that passes a small roof. It follows the edge of a corner without climbing in it. The last pitch has some doubtful rock.
6a5 pitches195 m
Croatia · Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)
Five pitches of steady 5c to 6a on compact, sculpted limestone in a quiet corner of the Velebit. The first pitch is sustained and delicate, pitch 3 has a short bouldery move over a small arch that you can pull through, and pitches 4 and 5 are the best of the route. Pitch 2 ends in a short vegetated gully and pitch 3 crosses a ledge.
6a5 pitches150 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.