Multipitch Atlas

Ura Ka

Kokkinovrachos (main wall, just left of Ramisi Rock) · Leonidio & Kyparissi · Greece

Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium

Five long, very homogeneous pitches between 6b and 6c+ up the big red wall above Leonidio, finishing through an overhang on big holds. Rated three stars locally and more sustained than Aramis next door. For parties solid at 6c.

The red wall of Kokkinovrachos above Leonidio, seen from Agios NektariosPhoto: Patrice78500 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo

The red wall of Kokkinovrachos above Leonidio, seen from Agios NektariosPhoto: Patrice78500 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Hardest pitch
6c+
Pitches
5
Length
185 m
Approach
30 min
Aspect
S
South-facing
Rope
2×50 m

The route

Overview

Ura Ka is one of the three-star sport multi-pitches on the main face of Kokkinovrachos, opened in 2015 by Claude and Yves Remy with M. Noverraz and C. Simeon in the same campaign as Aramis. It is short on pitches but long on climbing: five pitches of 30 to 40 m, none easier than 6b, with a 6b obligatory grade. The guide database singles out the consistency of the pitches and the final overhang. It is the hardest route in this batch after Ramisi Rock and has only one detailed source.

The climbing

Pitch by pitch

PitchGradeLengthNotes
P16b35 mGrey wall climbing with a lot of holds.
P26c+40 mGo right, then straight up.
P36c+40 mTraverse right, then straight up, then left. Expect rope drag.
P46c30 mCross to the right, close to Ramisi Rock, then up and left.
P56b+40 mAn overhang on big holds to the top: the great finale.

Getting there

Approach

To the parking

Base yourself in Leonidio on the east coast of the Peloponnese. Kokkinovrachos is the red wall directly above the town.

On foot · about 30 min

Walk from the town following the signs for Kokkinovrachos, or use the Douvari parking on the Vaskina road and traverse right along the foot of the wall. The path reaches the right-hand part of the cliff at the start of Aramis, whose name is painted in red; parties report 20 to 40 min from the village. Ura Ka is on the same part of the wall, immediately left of Ramisi Rock (its fourth pitch passes close to that route). No source describes how its start is marked; use the guidebook topo.

Map of the walk-in

  • Crag

Loading map

The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.

Coordinates · crag

37.17236, 22.85832

Point from OpenStreetMap node 13450285322 (Ramisi rock, Kokkinovrachos)

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Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.

Getting down

Descent

The online listing gives no descent for Ura Ka; the guidebook covers return options for the wall on a dedicated page. On the neighbouring routes you either abseil the line with two ropes of at least 50 m (Aramis is the usual abseil line and gets busy), or walk right along the top to a line of two abseils in the gully to the east, the second of which is 40 m, and then a path. A third option from the top is the long walk out to the Vaskina road.

Retreat

Bailing off the route

Bail not documented

Nothing is published about retreating from Ura Ka. The rope the guide specifies (one 100 m or two 50 m) suggests the belays can be abseiled, as on Aramis and Ramisi Rock nearby, but pitches 3 and 4 traverse and no party has reported doing it.

Retreat from
Probably R1 and R2, which are reached by fairly direct pitches (inferred).
Point of no return
Not documented. Pitches 3 and 4 both traverse, which would complicate abseiling from above them.
Carry
Two 50 m ropes at least, maillons and cord.
Basis
Inferred from the route factsInferred from the rope requirement and pitch descriptions on the guide site; no descent or retreat is described.

Partly inferred from the route facts

Safety

Hazards

  • Only one detailed source and no trip reports were found.
  • The guide site warns that the multi-pitches numbered 1 to 4 on its topo must not be climbed when climbers are at the single-pitch sectors below, because of loose blocks. The online listing does not say which routes those are, so check the printed topo.
  • Rope drag on pitch 3, which traverses right and then back left.
  • The descent is not described for this route; work it out from the guidebook before you leave the ground.
  • Sustained climbing with a 6b obligatory grade: retreat is the only easy way out if the grade is too much.
  • The local rescue team (Leonidio Fire Department) is not trained for big-wall rescue, as the local guide site points out.

Sun and weather

Conditions

South facing at about 420 m: a winter-sun wall, best from November to March. Neighbouring routes are reported too hot from late morning even in November on still days.

Usual season · Jan to Apr, Oct to Dec

Sun on the wall · S-facing

Working out the sunlit hours for this month.

Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season

Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Greek time), for the 15th of each month.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean daily high °C111214182227303026211612
Mean daily low °C66810151922231915117
Rain days 1 mm or more1111108744357811

● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 297 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

What to carry

Gear

18 quickdraws, and a single 100 m rope or two 50 m ropes (guide site). Long slings help on pitch 3. Helmets.

Checklist

Quickdraws
18
Rope
2×50 m
Helmet
One each
Abseil device and prusik
The descent or the retreat involves abseiling
Maillons or spare karabiners
To leave behind if you retreat
Cord
Mentioned for retreat

Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo

From climbers

Reader reports

Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Ura Ka.

Worth knowing

Tips

  • Aramis (6c, already in the atlas) is described locally as less sustained and makes a good check of form first.
  • Take the rope the guide asks for; the pitches are too long for a 60 m rope to abseil.

Open questions

Where sources disagree

  • None between sources, because only one source describes the route. The Aramis entry on the same site confirms that Ura Ka is the more sustained of the two.

Provenance

Sources

Same area

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Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.