Mallo Firé, Mallos de Riglos · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos) · Spain
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
The modern way up the Firé: nine pitches to a pointed summit among the vultures, more technical and less overhanging than the routes on the Visera. Two pitches of 6c, each with a bulge or a hard move off the belay, sit in the middle of sustained 6a+ to 6b+ climbing. 6b is obligatory.
The route
Directa As Cimas takes a direct line up the south-east side of the Firé, the sharp tower at the left end of the main Riglos group, and finishes on its summit. Camptocamp grades it TD+, 6c with 6b obligatory and A0 on the hardest moves. The style is finer and more vertical than the famous potato-pulling routes on the Visera, with almost no overhangs apart from the bulges that give the cruxes. Parties rate it among their best routes at Riglos and find the grades friendly for the area. Opinions on the rock range from sound to a fair number of holds that may come off.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5c | The opening pitch. It and the next can be wet after rain; a 2024 party used the first two pitches of the neighbouring José Martínez Conejo instead and rejoined below pitch 4. |
| P2 | 6a | Can be linked with pitch 1 on a 50 m rope if you manage the drag. |
| P3 | 6a+ | A physical start. |
| P4 | 6b | Sustained, on good conglomerate. |
| P5 | 6c | A sustained pitch ending with a physical bulge. |
| P6 | 6b+ | A physical bulge that is not obvious to work out. |
| P7 | 6c | A hard move off the belay and a delicate mantel. Airy belay. Logbook comments on theCrag find this 6c harder than the first. |
| P8 | 6a+ | Take the right-hand line of bolts from the belay; the left-hand line is strongly advised against. |
| P9 | 5c | A short pitch to the summit. The belay is on the right, at the end of a cable. |
Getting there
Riglos lies just off the A-132 between Ayerbe and Murillo de Gállego. Leave the car at the entrance to the village and walk up through it.
Walk through the village towards the walls. About 50 m after El Puro a path leaves on the left towards the Firé. The route starts about 50 m right of a big chimney, with the name written at the foot. No source gives a time; routes on the neighbouring Aguja Roja are given as 20 minutes from the village.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Point from camptocamp waypoint 43661 (Mallos de Riglos, El Firé)
Contains the route point. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.35354, -0.73023 (crag)
Getting down
From the last belay, on a cable, climb over the summit needle and down the other side to a second cable, then abseil to a notch. Walk down a few metres to a second abseil. Continue straight down to a slab with an anchor on a tree, then follow the path that leads back to the foot of El Puro. A 2024 party counted three abseils separated by walking, so you coil the ropes three times; they took about 1 hour 15 minutes from summit to village. No source gives the abseil lengths.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat by abseiling the route is not documented. The normal descent goes over the summit and down the far side, and no source says whether the belays on the face are rigged for abseil. One logbook entry on theCrag records a party retreating from above the second 6c pitch at dusk, so it has been done, but with no detail.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing, base about 600 m and summit about 900 m. Outings are logged in April, May, October and November. In May a party found it hot and was glad of the breeze; in November it was windy and cool. The first two pitches seep after rain.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 9 | 10 | 14 | 16 | 20 | 26 | 29 | 29 | 24 | 18 | 12 | 9 |
| Mean daily low °C | 1 | 1 | 3 | 5 | 9 | 13 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 9 | 4 | 2 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 9 | 7 | 9 | 10 | 10 | 7 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 8 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 612 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
17 quickdraws. Rope length is not stated in the sources: the 2024 party refers to ropes in the plural, and Riglos routes are normally climbed on 2×60 m. Helmet.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Directa As Cimas.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
This is the gentlest way to sample Riglos. Polished pockets and two bulging 'panzas' lead to a 6a crux that can be pulled through on the bolts (A0). The upper spur is easy, and the Pisón towers loom close by.
6a7 pitches175 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A long beginner's big route on good conglomerate at a moderate angle. Pitches can be linked in pairs with a 60 m rope. A four-pitch headwall with a couple of panzas finishes high above the Gállego valley.
5c14 pitches375 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
An airy spur with sustained 5b–5c climbing, a single 6a step on pitch 7, and big views over the Mallos de Riglos and the Pyrenees.
6a9 pitches230 m
Spain · Riglos & Agüero (Mallos)
A morning-sun route at the quieter Agüero mallos. Easy slabs separate two fine steep walls, including a superb vertical 5c plaque on pitch 4. Take care with some loose cobbles on the last traverse.
5c5 pitches145 m
Around 6c · about 9 pitches
Italy · Sardinia
A 300 m pillar on the 'Dolomite of Sardinia': a hard, smooth first pitch in a north-facing gully, long grey slabs and walls, a demanding technical crux on pitch 6, then exposed climbing on the crest of the pillar on big sculpted holds. Mountain atmosphere with sport protection.
6c9 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Austria · Gastein (Hohe Tauern)
A long, modern slab and wall route beside the waterfall on the Kleine Himmelwand, with six independent 50 m pitches before it joins the last two pitches of Father and Son. Three pitches have technical, bouldery passages at UIAA 7+ and the obligatory grade is high for the area, but the bolts are close.
6c9 pitches350 m
Switzerland · Sanetsch
A long, homogeneous line up the full height of the Montons on excellent limestone: steep sculpted walls and fine slabs, mostly 6a to 6b, with two short 6c cruxes that can be pulled through on the bolts. The fifth pitch, a steep Verdon-style slab, is the one people remember.
6c9 pitches250 m
France · Vanoise (Grand Bec)
The classic hard line of the south face of the Petite Aiguille de l'Arcelin, in a high cirque above Pralognan. Nine varied pitches on good grey limestone: corners, slabs, short overhangs and a technical 6c crux pitch with at least one obligatory move of 6b. Every pitch climbs, and the descent is a small mountain trip of its own.
6c9 pitches220 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
