Roca dels Arcs · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) · Spain
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
Three moderate pitches lead to a long, continuously overhanging 6c on good holds, with a 6a slab above it that seems endless on tired arms. One of the few fully bolted lines on the Roca dels Arcs, in the Lleida sector. The grades are stiff: several parties would add a plus to each.
The route
Migranya Profunda climbs the Lleida sector of the Roca dels Arcs beside the classic Lleida, sharing a stance with it and with El Clan de los Chamanes at the level of the big roof. Camptocamp grades it TD+, 6c with 6b obligatory. The fourth pitch is the point of the route: a big, sustained overhang followed by a 6a slab, bolted closely enough that seconds can pull through. The rest is 5 to 6a on excellent rock, apart from a short poorer section on the last pitch. Parties consistently find it hard for the grade.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5 | Two adjacent lines of bolts: take the left one, with newer silver hangers, straight up and then slightly left. The older right-hand line joins it by a horizontal traverse left. Do not follow Plaerdemavida, which traverses further left. |
| P2 | 5 | Obvious, going left then back right. Easier, on less inviting rock, to a belay close to Lleida. |
| P3 | 6a | The slab left of Lleida on pale brown rock, to a belay shared by three routes level with the roof of El Clan de los Chamanes. |
| P4 | 6c | A big, sustained overhang with a hard start on holds left of the bolts, then a 6a slab. 17 to 18 quickdraws to clip everything. |
| P5 | 6a | A bouldery little overhang straight off the belay, which some aid, then another bulge and an easy slab. |
| P6 | 5 | Easy, shared with Plaerdemavida. A short section of poorer rock, and a shrub worth a sling. |
Getting there
From Vilanova de Meià take the L-913 north towards Terradets. The climbing is in the gorge about 5 km above the village. From Tremp, drive south to the Terradets dam, cross it towards Llimiana and follow the LV-9121 and then the L-913 over the pass; the first car park is about 20 km from the dam. Park at the lay-bys in the gorge below the wall.
About 20 minutes, as for the route Lleida: take the path along the foot of the face and, about two thirds of the way along, the cairned fork right up to the Lleida sector. Lleida starts from a block, marked with its name; this route starts at the foot of the wall 4 m left of that block.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Parking
Lay-by car parks on the L-913 in the gorge, about 5.1 km north of Vilanova de Meià (camptocamp access waypoint 551854: a large one on the right in a bend, with two smaller ones 300 m and 700 m further on)
Point from camptocamp waypoint 41409 (Roca dels Arcs)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 42.02356, 1.02974 (crag) · Parking: 42.02250, 1.03485
Getting down
Not described on the route page. The general descent from the top of the Roca dels Arcs is to head west and, at the col before the Roca Alta, bear left to return along the foot of the wall. The alternative path east, down the north-east side to the road, has been badly eroded since the winter of 2014 to 2015 and is described as increasingly unsafe. A 2015 party noted that it is easy to lose the way on the descent.
Retreat
Bail not documented
No source describes abseiling this route or how its belays are rigged. Belay 3 is shared with Lleida and El Clan de los Chamanes, and a party was seen abseiling from belay 1 of Lleida nearby, but nothing is recorded for this line. The crux pitch overhangs, so retreat from above it would be awkward.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-facing at about 1000 m. Outings are logged in February, April and May, October and December. T-shirt weather in late October.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
Climate figures for Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs) are not available yet
What to carry
15 quickdraws are enough if you skip a few of the very close bolts on pitch 4; 17 or 18 to clip them all. One extra sling for pitch 6. Rope length is not stated.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Migranya Profunda.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four long, steep pitches on the left side of the Roca dels Arcs, sustained at 6a on good holds and not yet polished above the first pitch. The third pitch is the event: a reachy bulge to start, 30 m of gently overhanging strata, and a hard boulder move off a ledge to finish that most people grade 6c. That last move can be avoided by belaying on the neighbouring route.
6b+4 pitches160 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The easy classic of Vilanova de Meià, on the small wall opposite the Roca dels Arcs: four short pitches on the horizontal strata and rounded knobs typical of the area. Popular and now very polished, above all on the first pitch, where the old grade of IV+ feels stiff.
5c4 pitches100 m
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
The best of the easier lines on the Paret de Zaratustra: steep climbing on big horizontal holds, a very vertical wall on the long second pitch and an overhanging 6a finish. Less polished than Txubascos Baskos next door, but with longer gaps between some bolts.
6a4 pitches110 m
Read the cautions
Spain · Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs)
Four varied pitches under and around the big roofs of the Roca Alta, the quieter wall above and west of the Roca dels Arcs. A start out of a tree, an overhang on big holds, a fine steep wall and a bouldery 6b+ finish, all of which can be eased by pulling on the close bolts.
6b+4 pitches150 m
Around 6c · about 6 pitches
Greece · Leonidio & Kyparissi
Six sustained pitches up the red wall above Leonidio, four of them 6c. The climbing is steep and on good holds, with a 3 m boulder problem on the last pitch and a long 6a+ to start. The bolts are close enough to let you concentrate on the moves.
6c6 pitches200 m
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
Six sustained pitches up stepped diagonal corners, compact slabs and steep walls on the very rough limestone of the Kenzenkopf, an hour from the Kenzenhütte. The first pitch is the hardest, at UIAA 7 to 7+ with acrobatic moves on holdless slabs; the rest stays between 6 and 7. Sunny until late afternoon and far quieter than the Geiselstein.
6c6 pitches180 m
Morocco · Todra Gorge (Todgha)
Six pitches of technical wall and corner climbing one minute from the gorge-entrance guesthouses. Easy pitches alternate with three hard ones, and the 6b+ fourth pitch and the 6c last pitch are precise, footwork-heavy climbing on very rough rock. The route stops in the middle of the wall and you abseil off.
6c6 pitches160 m
Switzerland · Furka
The right-hand route on the Hannibalturm and the hardest of its plaisir lines. Two slab pitches lead to a layback crack, an awkward overhanging crack and corner, and a bulge above an athletic layback that gives the 6c crux. The first pitch is easy for the grade but boldly bolted.
6c6 pitches170 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.