Paret Bucòlica, between Oliana and Coll de Nargó · Coll de Nargó & Oliana (Alt Urgell) · Spain
Read the cautionsBail not documented
Five pitches of slabs on excellent grey limestone, on a sunny wall with a quick approach from the road. The difficulty builds to a 6b+ third pitch, with the odd bouldery move over small bulges. Closely bolted with parabolts and a good introduction to the Paret Bucòlica.
Climbing mode: Big type, screen kept awake, tick pitches as you go.
Highest point about 850 m above sea level (estimate: terrain height at the mapped point plus the height of the route).
Well bolted, but a pitch 1 hanger was broken by stonefall for years; it was reported replaced in 2022.
6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches · 160 mBail not documented
Pedra de Tartera is a 2005 sport line on the Paret Bucòlica, a sunny grey limestone wall beside the C-14 road tunnels between Oliana and Coll de Nargó. It is mostly slab climbing on sharp, featured rock, building from 5c to a 6b+ third pitch and a 6b fourth before an easy finish. The neighbouring routes (Terra de dinosaures, Balsam del tigre, Pas d'estrès) are often climbed the same day. The one known problem, a broken hanger on pitch 1, has reportedly been fixed.
The atlas doesn't show topos: they are the work of the people who bolt and document these routes. See the topo at La Noche del Loro 2 – Paret Bucòlica, Pedra de Tartera (2013), Camptocamp – Paret Bucòlica (crag) and parking waypoint 819876, or in Oliana: free route topos (reseñas).
| Pitch | Grade | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| P1 | 5cVI5.9 | 40 m | Slab with a bulge (Luichy grades it V+). A hanger at the bulge (the second according to Luichy in 2013, the third according to 2014 and 2015 reports) was broken by stonefall, making the bulge committing; in 2022 a new hanger was reported next to the old one. |
| P2 | 6a+VII-5.10b | 30 m | Slab. |
| P3 | 6b+VII+5.10d | 30 m | The crux pitch; a 2022 party found the 6b+ fair for the grade. |
| P4 | 6bVII5.10c | 30 m | Technical slab. Luichy's topo grades this pitch 6a+ then V, not 6b. |
| P5 | 4cV5.6 | 20 m | Easier ground (IV/IV+ on Luichy's topo) to R5 on the descent ledge. |
The wall is on the C-14 between Coll de Nargó and Oliana, in the Segre valley. From Coll de Nargó go through two tunnels; about 300 m after the second, just before a third, at about km 150, take the old road on the left (signed no entry to vehicles) and park in the small car park facing the wall. From Oliana, turn right just before the fourth tunnel. A 2016 party warns that parking in front of the road-maintenance buildings is forbidden.
Walk back about 50 m and take the cairned path (red marks) up a steep ravine towards the wall. Do not climb too high (that is the descent path); turn right fairly soon and reach the foot of the routes without a path. Approach time is not given.
Loading map
The point marks the crag, not the exact start of the route.
Coordinates · crag
Parking
Point from camptocamp waypoint 221384 (Paret Bucòlica)
Contains the route point and parking.
Points from published sources, not surveyed.
Coordinates: 42.13938, 1.30840 (crag) · Parking: 42.13217, 1.30991
On foot, without difficulty: follow the descent ledge, which is airy but not really exposed, then the scree and the cairned ravine back to the road. Parties describe it as tedious, especially in rain.
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The route is described with a walk-off and no source mentions abseiling it, although the belays are bolted.
12 quickdraws. Rope length is not given; the route is walked off.
South-east facing and sunny. Good from autumn to spring.
Forecast · next 7 days · 850 m
Loading the forecast.
| Measure | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Low °C | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Rain mm | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Chance of rain % | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
| Strongest gusts km/h | – | – | – | – | – | – | – |
Model forecast for 850 m. It cannot tell you whether the rock is dry. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Time plan · 5 pitches
Working out sunrise and sunset.
An estimate. Queues and route finding cost time, and shaded walls go dark before sunset. Local time (Central European time), flat horizon.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
From the aspect alone; terrain is ignored. Local time, 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May (usual season) | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec (usual season) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 8 | 10 | 14 | 16 | 20 | 25 | 28 | 27 | 22 | 18 | 12 | 9 |
| Mean daily low °C | −1 | −0 | 2 | 5 | 9 | 13 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 8 | 3 | −0 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 6 | 6 | 9 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 8 | 10 | 9 | 9 | 8 | 6 |
● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 690 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
Straight-line distances, up to 30 km.
No reports yet.
Around 6b+ · about 5 pitches
Spain · Mallorca (Sa Gubia)
A weaving line up the shady right-hand side of the bay through dramatic ground: an exposed wall, a traverse under a bulge to tufas and bolted-on holds, a superb rising leftward traverse on immaculate rock to a hanging belay, and a traverse back right to an open groove. Originally an aid pitch in the middle, now free at 6b+.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches100 m
Read the cautions
France · Préalpes d'Azur
A modern line up a limestone pillar above Séranon, steep and varied: crack, corner, a physical bulge and a delicate slab. Five well-bolted pitches in the 6a to 6b+ range, with a short walk between the first and second.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches165 m
Austria · Ötztal
A mix of slabs and steep, juggy passages in the Sonnenblume sector, mostly around 5b to 5c+. The one hard move is a small roof on pitch 4 (6b+), which goes easily on aid.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches170 m
Norway · Andersnatten (Eggedal)
The obvious black streak up the south-east face of Andersnatten. Three pitches of pure, technical slab are followed by steeper wall climbing. It feels hard for the grade if you are new to slab and soft if you are confident on it. Expect more footwork than strength.
6b+VII+5.10d6b+VII+5.10d5 pitches200 m
Read the cautions
Researched and aggregated by AI from published sources, last compiled October 2026. It can be wrong, and bolts, anchors and access change: check a current guidebook and read the disclaimer.