Mandrea (Laghel, Arco) · Arco & Valle del Sarca · Italy
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: medium
A very popular line that runs dead straight up the Mandrea wall above Laghel: rough slabs, traverses under overhangs, an odd tunnel-like roof and steep corners. Mostly 6a to 6b, with two harder passages, a traverse on small holds on pitch 2 and a rounded slab near the top, both of which can be pulled through on the bolts.
The route
Romantica was opened by Diego Filippi in 1999 and has become one of the standard harder sport multipitches around Arco. Bergsteigen.com calls it a must for climbers at home in the seventh UIAA grade, and gulliver.it warns that the many ascents are starting to show: the rock is polished at the crucial moves and dusty on the second pitch. The difficulty is not sustained at the top grade. Two passages reach about 6c to 6c+ and the rest is between 5b and 6b+, so with a willingness to use a point of aid the obligatory grade is about 6a.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 6b+ | A bulge on very dark rock. |
| P2 | 6c+ | A hard traverse leftwards on small holds and dusty rock, with some cords in the bolts. The most demanding pitch. |
| P3 | 6a/6b | A steep slab with easier climbing; bergsteigen.com's photos show a rising ramp under a roof. |
| P4 | 6a | The curious tunnel-like roof: not hard but unusual. A worn cord was in place in 2023. |
| P5 | 6b | A second, more athletic roof and a slab traverse. |
| P6 | 6a | The wall opens into a broad slab with elegant moves. |
| P7 | 5c | Aim for the centre of the corner that slants left, not the small tree on the right; a small overhang does not change the grade. Can be linked with the next pitch if you extend the runners and have 60 m half ropes or a 70 to 80 m single. |
| P8 | 5c | The continuation of the corner. |
| P9 | 5b | An exposed flake on the edge of the corner, then a few moves on the rim of a ledge to gain a comfortable stance. |
| P10 | 5c | A small roof passed with a committing move, then a faint corner to the belay. |
| P11 | 6c | A rounded slab with a hard sequence that is obligatory in its moves but not in its bolting. It is becoming polished at the crucial points. |
| P12 | 5c | A fine exit pitch on solid slanting runnels (5c easing to 4a) that fade into the vegetation at the top. |
Getting there
From the A22 (Trento or Rovereto) drive to Arco. In the centre follow the road towards Riva and, after the park, turn off for Laghel. A one-way system leads to the small church at Laghel. Turn left there, go briefly uphill and north until, after about 1 km, the road becomes a gravel track. Follow it to a cross with a fountain (Fontane, about 360 m) and park; the Kushi Ling meditation centre is just beyond. You can also park earlier along the road, since you walk it anyway, and some parties park near the top of the route and walk down to the base first.
About 15 min. From the road at the fountain, pass the barrier and follow the gravel track towards the wall. At a large overhang follow the foot of the wall to the right until, a little higher, you reach a small step with a small cave. The route is to the right of it. The start is unmistakable: a red painted panel with the name, a flower and an arrow.
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Parking marked on bergsteigen.com (cross and fountain, Laghel)
Point from bergsteigen.com touren/klettern/romantica-mandrea
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 45.94518, 10.88490 (route base) · Parking: 45.94170, 10.88370
Getting down
On foot, about 1 h. From the exit follow traces of path slightly downhill to the tarmac road and follow it left. After a large meadow on the right and some houses on the left, a hiking path on the left leads back south-east towards the wall; it rises briefly and runs for a stretch right along the cliff edge. Descend this path towards Laghel, then turn left on a good path marked with red dots back to the access track and follow that to the cross and fountain.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not documented. The descent is on foot and neither source describes abseiling or the belay hardware beyond listing slings for the stances. The line is straight, which would help, but pitch 2 is a long traverse.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-east facing; the parking is at about 360 m. Bergsteigen.com marks February to April and August to November as the best months. Allow about 5 h for the climb and a little over 6 h in all.
Sun on the wall · SE-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar (usual season) | Apr (usual season) | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov (usual season) | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | 5 | 7 | 11 | 14 | 19 | 22 | 24 | 24 | 20 | 16 | 10 | 6 |
| Mean daily low °C | −3 | −2 | 2 | 6 | 11 | 15 | 17 | 17 | 13 | 9 | 4 | −1 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 6 | 8 | 10 | 14 | 16 | 17 | 15 | 15 | 12 | 11 | 11 | 8 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 527 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
16 quickdraws, slings for the belays and a helmet. Bergsteigen.com lists two 60 m ropes (a 60 m double or single rope); the descent is on foot, so the choice is about rope drag and linking pitches. A sling to pull or stand in helps if you plan to aid the cruxes.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Romantica.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
This is the archetypal long, easy Arco slab, first climbed in 1971. It wanders up the lower bands and then improves into a superb water-worn chimney system in the upper half. It is very polished and very busy, so start early. Original grade 6- UIAA per bergsteigen.com; gulliver gives 5c max.
5c16 pitches400 m
Read the cautions
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
A succession of short walls and slabs separated by ledges, with the first two pitches shared with Amazzonia. The crux is a single 5c/6a move just below the P5 belay. It's a relaxed, well-protected outing above the Sarche gorge.
5c10 pitches250 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
An easy, relaxing sport route on low-angle Zebrate slabs, trending left to right to join Cane Trippa at the fifth belay. It's an excellent first multipitch. Gulliver gives UIAA III / II–III / IV / IV–IV+ for the first four pitches, converted here.
5b6 pitches240 m
Italy · Arco & Valle del Sarca
Eight sustained pitches up the wall opposite the Laterna restaurant, rarely easier than 6a. The crux is a short overhanging wall on pitch 5 that can be pulled through on the bolts. Less cleaned than its neighbours, with some broken rock on pitch 6.
6c+8 pitches220 m
Around 6c+ · about 12 pitches
Croatia · Paklenica
One of the best-protected long routes on Anića kuk. The hard climbing is all in the first three pitches, 7a, 7a+ and 6c+, which are bolted closely enough to pull through; the guidebook gives 5c/A1 for the aided grade. Above, nine pitches of 5a to 6b wander up the big north-west face on flakes, grooves, a corner and a chimney to finish near the summit.
6c+12 pitches385 m
France · Briançonnais
One of the most admired lines on the Tête d'Aval: eleven sustained pitches, first up steep cracks and walls, then across orange limestone studded with small spikes. The grade is 6c with a 6c+ passage that has a fixed sling for aid, and 6b is obligatory. Parties advise being comfortable at 6c, because the bolting is sound but not generous.
6c+11 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Morocco · Taghia
Twelve long, sustained pitches up the shady north face of the Taoujdad: technical slabs and walls demanding precise footwork, with a few athletic overhangs. Sources agree it is hard for the grade, with 6c obligatory and several pitches of 6c+ to 7a. The most approachable line on this face, but still a big day.
7a12 pitches500 m
Read the cautions
Spain · El Chorro
A twelve-pitch line to the top of the Frontales face, starting right of the big Poema de Roca cave. The hard pitches are short, bouldery and athletic; the upper half turns to technical water-pocket climbing. One party found it less coherent than its neighbours but worth it for the summit.
7a12 pitches300 m
Read the cautions
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
