Geiselstein – south face · Ammergauer Alpen · Germany
Bail not documentedBolting confidence: high
The classic way up the Geiselstein, the 'Matterhorn of the Ammergau Alps'. After two scrappy pitches it follows a slabby corner system up the middle of the sunny south face: steep, exposed and on good rock, at about UIAA IV with one polished move of V at the start of the corner. The descent by the normal route needs as much care as the climb.
The route
The Geiselstein (1882 m) is the main climbing peak of the Ammergau Alps, a steep pyramid of compact limestone above the Wankerfleck meadow. The Südverschneidung is its best-known moderate route: 260 m in seven pitches, of which the first two are easy broken ground and the middle four follow a fine corner system that feels very exposed for the grade. It has been rebolted with glue-ins and three independent sources describe it as well protected. The crux, a tight, polished move at the first two bolts of the third pitch, is UIAA V (about 5a); one source grades the polished sections V+. The route ends beside the summit, and the only way down is the normal route, a grade 2 scramble.
The climbing
| Pitch | Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| P1 | 4a | From the first glue-in climb about 20 m to a large ring bolt (UIAA IV; IV+ on the allgaeu-plaisir.de topo). Brittle in places. |
| P2 | 2 | Easy broken ground (UIAA I to II; II+ on the topo) rightwards to the foot of the corner. Little protection in place. |
| P3 | 5a | The crux pitch. A tight, awkward and very polished move at the first two bolts (UIAA V, 5-/5 on bergsteigen.com, V+ on the allgaeu-plaisir.de topo), then the slabby corner at about IV. |
| P4 | 3c | A short, very exposed steep step, then a change of direction to the west up a blocky gully to a niche (UIAA IV-; IV+ on the topo). |
| P5 | 4a | Steeply out of the niche onto the second part of the slabby corner, to a gnarled old tree (UIAA IV; V+ on the topo, where the rock is polished). A fine corner pitch. |
| P6 | 4a | A last slabby steep section into broken ground with a large cave (UIAA IV). Loose stones lie everywhere in the cave and are very easily sent down the route. |
| P7 | 3b | Leave the cave by the hole at the back and climb broken ground to the exit just beside the summit (UIAA III+). The fragile rock arch above is now passed on the right for safety. |
Getting there
Drive from Füssen or Steingaden to Halblech and park at the hikers' car park for the Kenzenhütte, at the bridge on the northern edge of the village where the valley road starts (bergsteigen.com recorded it as free of charge in August 2026). A shuttle bus runs from there up the private valley road to the Wankerfleck stop and on to the Kenzenhütte, roughly hourly in season; timetable at halblech.de. The road is mostly tarmac and good on a mountain bike, 1 to 1.5 h to the Wankerfleck or the hut, quicker by e-bike. By public transport: train to Füssen, bus to Halblech, then the shuttle.
From the Wankerfleck bus stop (1140 m) go west across the meadow, or take the gravel track a little to the right, and follow the signposted trail and then the path up to the Geiselsteinjoch (1729 m). From the col descend for about 2 min on the east side; a path across scree and grass leads to the foot of the south face at a dark memorial plaque. Two starts are in use. The original one is left of the plaque: about 25 m of grade II scrambling eastwards to the first glue-in at the foot of the rock. The start of the neighbouring route Balisto, a little higher to the left and marked by a glue-in and a large anchor, is now the usual one because the rock is more compact. Sources give 1 h 15 from the bike depot at the end of the forest track, 1 h 30 from the Wankerfleck (bergsteigen.com) and about 2 h (allgaeu-plaisir.de).
Loading map
The point marks the base of the route.
Parking
Parkplatz Kenzenhütte, Halblech (bergsteigen.com map marker); shuttle bus or bike from here up the valley road
Point from bergsteigen.com map marker for the route, about 170 m south of the summit (camptocamp waypoint 1471807)
Contains the route point and parking. Opens in most mapping apps and GPS watches.
Points are compiled from published sources, with the precision stated above. They were not surveyed on the ground: check them against a current topo.
Coordinates: 47.56090, 10.82930 (route base) · Parking: 47.62530, 10.82170
Getting down
By the normal route, which is itself a scramble. From the summit go along the ridge towards the north-east to the notch where the ridge ends (ring bolt). Climb down a steep gully on the north side, following the worn rock and red and white marks, with passages of grade 2 (one source says 2 to 3), iron pins and bolts no more than 30 m apart that you can clip or abseil from. At the bottom, below a short west wall, follow the path left round the mountain back to the Geiselsteinjoch, about 20 to 30 min from the summit, then return down the approach path. bergsteigen.com allows 1 h 15 for the whole descent to the Wankerfleck and suggests moving together on the rope and clipping the bolts when the rock is wet.
Retreat
Bail not documented
Retreat is not described by any source. The belays have large ring bolts and the corner is a fairly direct line, which suggests abseiling is feasible, but on the single 60 m rope the route is normally climbed with you can only descend 30 m at a time, and pitch lengths are not published. The first two pitches are easy enough to down-climb.
Partly inferred from the route facts
Safety
Sun and weather
South-facing, starting at about 1717 m. The face is in the sun when the north side of the mountain is already cold, and allgaeu-plaisir.de recommends it for sunny autumn days. The shuttle bus runs from June to October, which is the practical season. The descent faces north and is dangerous when wet, icy or snow-covered.
Sun on the wall · S-facing
Working out the sunlit hours for this month.
Sun on the wallDaylight, wall in shade● Usual season
Estimated from the wall's aspect only. Ignores surrounding terrain, gullies and the wall's exact shape. Clock times are local to the wall (Central European time), for the 15th of each month.
| Measure | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun (usual season) | Jul (usual season) | Aug (usual season) | Sep (usual season) | Oct (usual season) | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mean daily high °C | −3 | −2 | 2 | 5 | 10 | 14 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 8 | 3 | −2 |
| Mean daily low °C | −13 | −12 | −8 | −5 | 0 | 4 | 6 | 6 | 3 | −1 | −6 | −11 |
| Rain days 1 mm or more | 13 | 12 | 15 | 16 | 21 | 21 | 20 | 20 | 16 | 13 | 12 | 14 |
● marks the usual climbing season. Averages for 1991-2020 at about 1638 m. Area climate from Open-Meteo reanalysis. Temperatures are adjusted to the height of the crag; rain comes from a grid cell of about 10 to 25 km, and summer highs on sea cliffs can read a few degrees low. The wall and valley can differ. Data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.
What to carry
A single 60 m rope, 8 quickdraws (allgaeu-plaisir.de says 10), a few slings and a helmet. bergsteigen.com lists no nuts and no cams, and the bergtour-online party used none.
Derived from the route data; check it against a current topo
From climbers
Reader reports are not being collected yet. Until they are, check a current topo and the local club or guidebook publisher for recent changes to Südverschneidung.
Worth knowing
Open questions
Provenance
Same area
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
A short, easy alpine route of UIAA 4+ on the Schlössel above the Kenzenhütte: a water runnel, a corner and slabs, then a compact pillar to finish. Bolted where it matters but not closely. Pitch 3 has some unreliable rock and grass.
4c4 pitches140 m
Read the cautions
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
The popular sport line of the Geiselstein south face, straight up to the summit cross. Long, steep pitches on excellent rough limestone, sustained at UIAA 6- to 6 with two short passages of 6+ and one easier pitch on less reliable rock. Never easy and never crowded with bolts: you climb between them.
6a+5 pitches210 m
Read the cautions
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
Six sustained pitches up stepped diagonal corners, compact slabs and steep walls on the very rough limestone of the Kenzenkopf, an hour from the Kenzenhütte. The first pitch is the hardest, at UIAA 7 to 7+ with acrobatic moves on holdless slabs; the rest stays between 6 and 7. Sunny until late afternoon and far quieter than the Geiselstein.
6c6 pitches180 m
Germany · Ammergauer Alpen
The longest route on the Säuling: sixteen pitches up the west face to the summit cross, above Neuschwanstein and the lakes of the Allgäu. The lower part links pillars, traverses and some broken ground at UIAA 3 to 6+; the headwall is steep and compact, with a short aid passage and fine corners. Generously bolted, so a weaker second still has a good day.
6a+16 pitches360 m
Around 5a · about 7 pitches
Spain · Aragonese Pyrenees (Tena & Canfranc valleys)
An easy granite ridge above the Bozuelo meadows, low-angled and never exposed. Two smooth friction slabs at 5a, on pitches 1 and 6, are the only real difficulties; the rest is steps and short walls at grade 3 to 4. Ideal for a first multipitch, and you can step off rightwards onto ledges almost anywhere.
5a7 pitches200 m
Switzerland · Wiwanni (Baltschiedertal)
The easiest bolted line to a 3001 m summit above the Wiwannihütte: compact slabs for the first half, then two pitches on a small ridge and a short scree walk to the cross. The thin slab move low down is the crux and feels harder than the old 4c grade. The down-climb of the west ridge is part of the day.
5a7 pitches250 m
Austria · Grazer Bergland
An easy ridge route up the left-hand end of the Rote Wand, first climbed in 1982. The rock is completely solid and the climbing uneven in difficulty, mostly UIAA 4 with a few moves of 4+ and 5. The hand-traverse on the penultimate pitch is the highlight. Somewhat polished.
5a7 pitches225 m
Read the cautions
France · Chamonix valley
Seven easy pitches up a string of separate buttresses east of the Brévent face, with a short walk between most of them and one 10 m abseil. Slabs, a corner-chimney and a couple of cracks at 4b to 5a, and you can walk off after almost any pitch. It is the usual first multipitch at the Brévent, so expect company.
5a7 pitches200 m
Compiled from published sources and last verified October 2026. Bolts, anchors and access change. Climbing is dangerous and you are responsible for your own decisions: check a current topo and read the disclaimer.
