Multipitch Atlas

Spelling need not be exact.

Orpierre

Orpierre is a small medieval village in the Céans valley in the south-west of the Hautes-Alpes, inside the Baronnies provençales regional park, and one of the best-known sport climbing centres in France. Its grey, sculpted limestone cliffs rise straight above the village; most of them belong to the commune, which employs someone to bolt and maintain the routes, so the bolting is close and the belays are chained. The multipitch routes, up to about 170 m of climbing, are on the Quiquillon and the Ascle, reached in 15 to 30 minutes on foot from the village or from the Adrech car park just above it. Orpierre lies about 10 km west-north-west of Laragne-Montéglin and 25 km north-west of Sisteron, reached by road from Laragne. The south-facing walls are climbed from autumn to spring; summer is hot, and the walls are very busy at weekends and holidays.

Routes
4
Grade span
5bto6b
Longest route: Brazil
180 m
The Quiquillon above Orpierre, home of Brazil and the other multipitch routes on its south-east face
The Quiquillon above Orpierre, home of Brazil and the other multipitch routes on its south-east facePhoto: Adrien T · CC BY-SA 3.0

Location and climate

Loading map

Quiquillon, Orpierre · 924 m

Monthly climate averages for Orpierre, 1991-2020
MeasureJanFebMar (usual season)Apr (usual season)May (usual season)Jun (usual season)JulAugSep (usual season)Oct (usual season)Nov (usual season)Dec
Mean daily high °C56101317212424191595
Mean daily low °C−3−3−127101313961−2
Rain days 1 mm or more97912131088910119

● usual season. 1991-2020 averages at about 924 m; rain is for a 10–25 km grid cell. Weather and climate data: Open-Meteo, CC BY 4.0.

Routes in Orpierre

The Quiquillon above Orpierre, home of Brazil and the other multipitch routes on its south-east face

France · Orpierre

Brazil

A popular first multipitch on the south-east face of the Quiquillon: eight short pitches of steep, juggy 5a to 5c limestone, very closely bolted, finishing on the summit ridge. The two 5c pitches at the top are the hardest and polished in places, but can be aided on the bolts. Expect company.

5c8 pitches180 m

Leading the steep, physical wall of pitch 4 (6b) of Fleur de Lotus on the Quiquillon, Orpierre

France · Orpierre

Fleur de Lotus

A direct, homogeneous line up the south-east face of the Quiquillon: steep grey walls and slabs at 6a/6a+, with a physical, juggy bulge leading to a fine 6b traverse on pitch 4. Generously bolted and well travelled, a step up from Brazil next door.

6b5 pitches160 m

Setting off on the traverse pitch of Le Maître de la danse on the Pilier W de l'Ascle, Orpierre

France · Orpierre

Le Maître de la danse

A short, easy beginners' multipitch on the west pillar of the Ascle: six short pitches of 4c to 5b on sculpted limestone with holes and edges, an airy but well-bolted traverse, and a fine slab to finish. Very closely bolted with comfortable chained belays.

5b6 pitches130 m

The long, steep first pitch of Du cidre pour les étoiles on the Quiquillon, Orpierre

France · Orpierre

Du cidre pour les étoiles

Three steep, sustained 6a pitches on the south-east face of the Quiquillon, the first a long 40 m pump on layered rock, then a walking link and two short, easy slab pitches to the ridge. Very closely bolted with doubled chained belays; the lower half is the reason to go.

6a6 pitches145 m

Download parking and wall bases as GPX (5 points)

At the crag and in town

French

corde
rope
dégaine
quickdraw
spit, goujon
bolt
plaquette
bolt hanger
relais
belay, anchor
Sec !
Take!
Du mou !
Slack!
Avale !
Take in!

Other regions nearby